INTO THE APY LANDS

Since mid last year I have had a burning desire to get up into the lands and speak with the communities about what life is like encompassing the challenges of living so remotely and the rewards of beings close to country and the spirit of the land.

Being based in Coober Pedy this is ultimately made a lot easier shaving 1000km’s from the journey. The initial meeting time was 4pm to 5pm on the Friday in the town of Marla (243km). After four hours of waiting it became apparent that my contact wasn’t going to show.

The decision to head back to the studio had to be made however travelling in this area after dark presents a series of road hazard challenges such as wandering bullocks, kangaroos and emus so I ended up ghosting a three trailer road train for the entire journey making it safely back at around 11pm.
Wasn’t such a bad drive I have purposely left early so I could stop along the way and capture anything that caught my attention. This is a practice that I have found really mentally freeing as well as giving me time to stop and enjoy the country whilst still being on time for meetings and production shoots. I do feel for the truck drivers that flew past the shoot of the bloated cow.
Early start leaving Coober Pedy once again Saturday morning to head back to Marla for a second attempt at meeting up with my contact. Have to admit it was a strange experience being tired and sore without really even shooting a frame it’s a similar feeling I have after my assisting work.

This time my contact, Rueben Burton, did show up and quickly explained that a fibre cable had been cut somewhere in the lands leaving the entire APY without phones, internet, banking, food or fuel. This obviously caused some communication and logistical challenges. We drove for six hours into the lands passing communities along the way including Indulkana, Mimili, Freegon and finally Amata.

The sun sets as we reach the great mountains of the APY lands and pull into Amata to load in the equipment and hit sleep.

The next port of call was the community shop which was an eye opener with a common coles cake fetching $68 and malu wipu (tail) rounding out at $30 each. I could completely appreciate the struggles and challenges of the community living so remotely and paying such high prices for everything ranging from food, limited clothing and diesel sitting firmly at $2.20 a litre.

This trip was filled with firsts including wild donkeys, camels and boars walking the streets looking for vulnerable bins.

I would have to say the most disconcerting part of the stay would have been the 24 hour church service that is broadcasted throughout the town at quite an impressive sound pressure level. Think it was the duration of the broadcast coupled with the yelling and signal distortion.

Will be back for sure it’s just a matter of time. Big thanks to Rueben and his family for taking me into their lives even if for three days.

HOMELAND \ The Importance of Place
National Portrait Prize 2015

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